Paws and Purrs

Frequently Asked Questions About Cats and Kittens

1. Why doesn’t my cat use the litterbox anymore?

Fluffy may have a urinary tract infection (UTI) which causes painful urination. She may associate the pain with the litterbox and try to find a less painful place to “go“. The first step in solving inappropriate elimination problems is to take the cat to a vet to rule out medical problems. If the vet says Fluffy is healthy, the problem may then be something about the litterbox itself.

•  It could be cleanliness - the litter should be scooped at least twice a day, and the litterbox itself cleaned monthly if you’re using scoop able litter and weekly if you’re using traditional clay litter.

•  It could be location - cats prefer a relatively quiet place out of busy traffic areas. For kittens and senior cats, there should be a litterbox on each level of your house.

•  It could be the litter itself- most cats prefer the scoopable sand type litter without scents. This is especially true for front declawed cats whose paws may be sensitive.

•  It could be there is an insufficient number litterboxes - the rule of thumb is one litterbox per cat plus one more.

For more information on inappropriate elimination problems, go to the articles tab at http://catsinternational.org/.

2. Why shouldn’t I have my cat declawed?

Declawing is actually a surgical amputation of the last bone of the cat’s toes. It is illegal or considered to be extremely inhumane in many European countries. Aside from being very painful, declawing can lead to life long problems for Fluffy. She may stop using the litterbox because of tenderness and phantom pain in the stumps. She may become a biter in the absence of her primary form of defense. Fluffy may experience a personality change and become more withdrawn because she feels vulnerable. Because she can’t anchor her claws in a scratching post, she cannot get a good stretch of her leg and back muscles.

There is no good reason to declaw your cat. With a little patience, cats with claws can be trained to scratch in an appropriate place. A sturdy scratching post that is high enough and has a broad base so it won’t tip is great for Fluffy. Plastic glue on nail caps are available from your vet or a pet store. They completely prevent any damage a cat may cause by clawing.

For more information about declawing, go to http://www.declawing.com/

3. Why do I have to have my cat spayed/neutered?

•  Spayed/neutered cats live longer and are healthier. The possibility of ovarian and uterine cancer is eliminated in female cats and the possibility of testicular cancer and prostate disease is eliminated in the males.

•  The need to “mark” territory by spraying (urinating on a vertical surface) is eliminated.

•  The urge to roam and get into fights over potential mates or territory is eliminated.

•  Spayed/neutered cats tend to be more calm and friendly, and make better companions when they’re not driven by hormones.

•  Millions of unwanted and homeless kittens and cats are euthanized in the United States every year. By spaying/neutering your cat, you are helping to control the tremendous overpopulation.

Contrary to popular opinion, spayed/neutered cats do not automatically become overweight. With a sensible feeding program and playful exercise, Fluffy and Felix will maintain their youthful figures.

For more information about spaying/neutering, go to http://www.hsus.org/pets/pet_care/why_you_should_spay_or_neuter_your_pet.html

4. Why should I keep my cat indoors?

Indoor cats live longer, healthier, and some would say happier lives. The outdoors is fraught with dangers for Fluffy. Among the perils for cats outdoors are:

•  Predators - coyotes, unleashed dogs, raccoons, and other wild animals in the urban setting can catch and kill your cat

•  Disease and parasites - the dangers range from ringworm, to coccidia and giardia, to FIV and FeLV. Expensive vet bills may be incurred in getting Fluffy back to good health.

•  Traffic - cars kill cats.

•  People - some children, and even adults, take pleasure in teasing or torturing cats. Some people catch outdoor cats and sell them to laboratories for animal testing.

Fluffy and Felix can live perfectly happy lives indoors. Given a few high perches in the house, a place to sit and watch the birds, a sturdy scratching post, and daily play sessions, your cat will be living the life of Riley.

For more information, go to http://home.hiwaay.net/~keiper/indoors.htm#Facts

5. How do I keep my cat from clawing the furniture?

Clawing is a natural activity for a cat. Fluffy claws to keep her nails in good condition, to use the scent of her paws to mark territory, and to get a good stretch to strengthen and tone her back and leg muscles. Clawing is instinctual for cats and the activity cannot be trained out of them. However, training cats to claw in appropriate places is relatively easy.

A two phase approach is recommended. Phase one is to provide an acceptable place for Fluffy or Felix to claw. A sturdy, sisal wrapped scratching post high enough for the cat to reach up most of her body length and with a base broad enough so it won’t tip it over is ideal. For the cat who prefers horizontal scratching, a box with edge on corrugated cardboard is a good solution. Rub the scratching surface with a little catnip and praise Fluffy when she uses it.

The second phase is to make the living room couch, or other unacceptable clawing target, unattractive to Fluffy. Putting double sided tape or Sticky Paws on the surface works quite well. Spraying the surface with a citrus based repellent may also work. When the cat claws an unacceptable object, tell her “no” and take her to the acceptable scratching place. Put her paws on the scratching post and praise her.

For more information, go to http://www.hdw-inc.com/treetraining.htm

6. Why does my cat sometimes bite or scratch people?

Here are some common reasons cats and kittens may bite or scratch:

•  Over stimulation - more petting than Fluffy can tolerate may cause her to bite or scratch. If she starts to wave or thump her tail, it’s time to stop the petting.

•  Play aggression - Watch cats and kittens playing with each other and you’ll see lots of play biting and scratching. Your cat may attack your ankles or bite your hand in the same manner. Never play with Fluffy with your hands. If she does bite or scratch, make a loud noise to startle her, and walk away.

•  Redirected aggression - a strange cat outside, or other stimulus your cat cannot reach, may put your cat in attack mode. Because your cat cannot get to the actual target, she may redirect her energy to a nearby person and bite or scratch.

Whatever the cause of her biting or scratching, never punish your cat. That may make matters worse and cause the cat to be fearful of you. A loud noise, e.g. shake an empty can with a few pennies in it, or a water spray bottle, will work to distract your cat and stop the undesirable behavior.

For more information, go to http://www.nhspca.org/training/catbiting.html

7. How do I introduce my new cat to my other pets?

Slow and easy is the way to go. For the first few days to a week after you bring your new cat or kitten home, keep her in a sanctuary room. It can be a bathroom, bedroom, or other room where you can keep the door closed. Give Fluffy her litterbox, food, water, bedding, and toys and let her get used to her new surroundings before asking her to take on the entire house and family. Visit her often and play with her.

Slowly begin to introduce other furkids in the family by switching Fluffy’s bedding with the other pet’s, or by rubbing each with a small towel or cloth and giving it to the other to smell. Then leave the door to the sanctuary room open just a crack so the pets can “visit” each other without having full physical contact. When you sense that the introductions are going well, open the door to the sanctuary room and let Fluffy come out as she wishes. Supervise the physical introductions until you are satisfied that everyone is getting along. It’s perfectly normal for Fluffy to growl or hiss at her new companions. Don’t be concerned unless you see fur flying.

For more information, go to http://www.petplace.com/cats/introducing-your-new-cat-to-your-household/page1.aspx

8. How do I keep my cat from waking me up very early in the morning?

You have an “alarm clock kitty”. Although Fluffy doesn’t have to hunt, it’s in her nature to wake up around dawn as if she had to. If you toss a toy to keep her busy, in any way give her attention, or, worse yet, get up to feed her, you’re reinforcing the behavior. Try giving her a vigorous play session before bed to wear her out a bit. Giving her food at bedtime will send her to sleep with a full tummy and may help her sleep longer.

Keeping her out of the bedroom at night may help, but don’t be surprised to hear her scratching and knocking on the door early in the morning. Be prepared to put up with that for a couple of weeks until Fluffy understands that it doesn’t do her any good. As a last resort, put Fluffy in her own “bedroom” for the night. With a litterbox, water, bedding, and toys, she’ll be fine until you get up.

For more information, go to http://www.petplace.com/cats/thwarting-the-alarm-clock-cat/page1.aspx

9. When should I take my cat to the vet?

Every cat/kitten should be taken to the vet within a week or two of joining your family. Even though they may seem perfectly healthy, a “well cat” checkup is in order to make sure there are no lurking problems such as parasites. Additionally, if Fluffy is a kitten, she may be due for inoculations.

After the initial vet visit, your cat should go to the vet once a year. The vet will do a physical exam to make sure the cat is healthy and administer Rabies and any other legally required or recommended inoculations. Senior cats (7 yrs. and older) should be examined by a vet twice a year.

Of course you should take Fluffy to the vet any time you suspect she may a health problem. Not using the litterbox, excessive thirst or urination, frequent coughing or sneezing, vomiting or diarrhea that last more than one day, significant changes in activity level or appetite - all are signs of potential problems. No one knows Fluffy better than you do. You’ll be the first one to sense anything that might signal a health problem. When in doubt, take her to the vet. Imagine how you would feel if you failed to take the time or spend a few dollars to take her to the vet and she had a serious illness which could have been treated.

For more information, go to http://catcare.karynb.com/vet_care.html

10. What should I feed my cat?

Cats are obligate carnivores. That means that they must eat meat to survive. Their metabolism is such that they cannot effectively digest grains and vegetables. In the wild, the only vegetables a cat eats is the stomach contents of its prey.

Commercially available cat foods come in three varieties: dry, semi-moist, and canned. Any of them that are marked “complete and balanced nutrition” per AAFCO standards will be adequate for your cat. However, if you check the feeding guidelines on the package, you’ll see that you must feed more of the less expensive foods to meet Fluffy’s nutritional needs. Check the labels on the cat food packages. You’ll find that the less expensive brands list corn meal and other grains as the first ingredient. In the long run, a high quality canned food will be the best for your cat and, perhaps, your pocketbook.

Some cat guardians are proponents of a raw food diet, claiming it is closest to what a cat would eat in the wild. It is difficult, however, to insure that a home made raw diet will contain a sufficient amount of essential nutrients. Further, many veterinarians advise against a raw food diet because of the risk of disease such as salmonella.

For more information, go to http://www.vet.cornell.edu/fhc/resources/brochure/feedcats.html

General Information References:Here are three web sites that provide excellent information on all facets of cat care:

http://catsinternational.org/

http://www.vet.cornell.edu/fhc/resources/brochure/

http://www.spcanova.org/feline_education.html

http://cats.about.com/od/newtocats/tp/topmistakes.htm

http://www.petpublishing.com/catkit/faq.shtml

Donations to help our animals may be made through a secure page on

P.O. Box 541. Montgomery, IL. 60538
Phone 630-897-8738
Fax 630-897-4046
e-mail: pawsandpurrs@prodigy.net

	Frequently Asked Questions About Cats and Kittens 1. Why doesn’t my cat use the litterbox anymore? Fluffy may have a urinary tract infection (UTI) which causes painful urination. She may associate the pain with the litterbox and try to find a less painful place to “go“. The first step in solving inappropriate elimination problems is to take the cat to a vet to rule out medical problems. If the vet says Fluffy is healthy, the problem may then be something about the litterbox itself. • It could be cleanliness - the litter should be scooped at least twice a day, and the litterbox itself cleaned monthly if you’re using scoop able litter and weekly if you’re using traditional clay litter. • It could be location - cats prefer a relatively quiet place out of busy traffic areas. For kittens and senior cats, there should be a litterbox on each level of your house. • It could be the litter itself- most cats prefer the scoopable sand type litter without scents. This is especially true for front declawed cats whose paws may be sensitive. • It could be there is an insufficient number litterboxes - the rule of thumb is one litterbox per cat plus one more. For more information on inappropriate elimination problems, go to the articles tab at http://catsinternational.org/. 2. Why shouldn’t I have my cat declawed? Declawing is actually a surgical amputation of the last bone of the cat’s toes. It is illegal or considered to be extremely inhumane in many European countries. Aside from being very painful, declawing can lead to life long problems for Fluffy. She may stop using the litterbox because of tenderness and phantom pain in the stumps. She may become a biter in the absence of her primary form of defense. Fluffy may experience a personality change and become more withdrawn because she feels vulnerable. Because she can’t anchor her claws in a scratching post, she cannot get a good stretch of her leg and back muscles. There is no good reason to declaw your cat. With a little patience, cats with claws can be trained to scratch in an appropriate place. A sturdy scratching post that is high enough and has a broad base so it won’t tip is great for Fluffy. Plastic glue on nail caps are available from your vet or a pet store. They completely prevent any damage a cat may cause by clawing. For more information about declawing, go to http://www.declawing.com/ 3. Why do I have to have my cat spayed/neutered? • Spayed/neutered cats live longer and are healthier. The possibility of ovarian and uterine cancer is eliminated in female cats and the possibility of testicular cancer and prostate disease is eliminated in the males. • The need to “mark” territory by spraying (urinating on a vertical surface) is eliminated. • The urge to roam and get into fights over potential mates or territory is eliminated. • Spayed/neutered cats tend to be more calm and friendly, and make better companions when they’re not driven by hormones. • Millions of unwanted and homeless kittens and cats are euthanized in the United States every year. By spaying/neutering your cat, you are helping to control the tremendous overpopulation. Contrary to popular opinion, spayed/neutered cats do not automatically become overweight. With a sensible feeding program and playful exercise, Fluffy and Felix will maintain their youthful figures. For more information about spaying/neutering, go to http://www.hsus.org/pets/pet_care/why_you_should_spay_or_neuter_your_pet.html 4. Why should I keep my cat indoors? Indoor cats live longer, healthier, and some would say happier lives. The outdoors is fraught with dangers for Fluffy. Among the perils for cats outdoors are: • Predators - coyotes, unleashed dogs, raccoons, and other wild animals in the urban setting can catch and kill your cat • Disease and parasites - the dangers range from ringworm, to coccidia and giardia, to FIV and FeLV. Expensive vet bills may be incurred in getting Fluffy back to good health. • Traffic - cars kill cats. • People - some children, and even adults, take pleasure in teasing or torturing cats. Some people catch outdoor cats and sell them to laboratories for animal testing. Fluffy and Felix can live perfectly happy lives indoors. Given a few high perches in the house, a place to sit and watch the birds, a sturdy scratching post, and daily play sessions, your cat will be living the life of Riley. For more information, go to http://home.hiwaay.net/~keiper/indoors.htm#Facts 5. How do I keep my cat from clawing the furniture? Clawing is a natural activity for a cat. Fluffy claws to keep her nails in good condition, to use the scent of her paws to mark territory, and to get a good stretch to strengthen and tone her back and leg muscles. Clawing is instinctual for cats and the activity cannot be trained out of them. However, training cats to claw in appropriate places is relatively easy. A two phase approach is recommended. Phase one is to provide an acceptable place for Fluffy or Felix to claw. A sturdy, sisal wrapped scratching post high enough for the cat to reach up most of her body length and with a base broad enough so it won’t tip it over is ideal. For the cat who prefers horizontal scratching, a box with edge on corrugated cardboard is a good solution. Rub the scratching surface with a little catnip and praise Fluffy when she uses it. The second phase is to make the living room couch, or other unacceptable clawing target, unattractive to Fluffy. Putting double sided tape or Sticky Paws on the surface works quite well. Spraying the surface with a citrus based repellent may also work. When the cat claws an unacceptable object, tell her “no” and take her to the acceptable scratching place. Put her paws on the scratching post and praise her. For more information, go to http://www.hdw-inc.com/treetraining.htm 6. Why does my cat sometimes bite or scratch people? Here are some common reasons cats and kittens may bite or scratch: • Over stimulation - more petting than Fluffy can tolerate may cause her to bite or scratch. If she starts to wave or thump her tail, it’s time to stop the petting. • Play aggression - Watch cats and kittens playing with each other and you’ll see lots of play biting and scratching. Your cat may attack your ankles or bite your hand in the same manner. Never play with Fluffy with your hands. If she does bite or scratch, make a loud noise to startle her, and walk away. • Redirected aggression - a strange cat outside, or other stimulus your cat cannot reach, may put your cat in attack mode. Because your cat cannot get to the actual target, she may redirect her energy to a nearby person and bite or scratch. Whatever the cause of her biting or scratching, never punish your cat. That may make matters worse and cause the cat to be fearful of you. A loud noise, e.g. shake an empty can with a few pennies in it, or a water spray bottle, will work to distract your cat and stop the undesirable behavior. For more information, go to http://www.nhspca.org/training/catbiting.html 7. How do I introduce my new cat to my other pets? Slow and easy is the way to go. For the first few days to a week after you bring your new cat or kitten home, keep her in a sanctuary room. It can be a bathroom, bedroom, or other room where you can keep the door closed. Give Fluffy her litterbox, food, water, bedding, and toys and let her get used to her new surroundings before asking her to take on the entire house and family. Visit her often and play with her. Slowly begin to introduce other furkids in the family by switching Fluffy’s bedding with the other pet’s, or by rubbing each with a small towel or cloth and giving it to the other to smell. Then leave the door to the sanctuary room open just a crack so the pets can “visit” each other without having full physical contact. When you sense that the introductions are going well, open the door to the sanctuary room and let Fluffy come out as she wishes. Supervise the physical introductions until you are satisfied that everyone is getting along. It’s perfectly normal for Fluffy to growl or hiss at her new companions. Don’t be concerned unless you see fur flying. For more information, go to http://www.petplace.com/cats/introducing-your-new-cat-to-your-household/page1.aspx 8. How do I keep my cat from waking me up very early in the morning? You have an “alarm clock kitty”. Although Fluffy doesn’t have to hunt, it’s in her nature to wake up around dawn as if she had to. If you toss a toy to keep her busy, in any way give her attention, or, worse yet, get up to feed her, you’re reinforcing the behavior. Try giving her a vigorous play session before bed to wear her out a bit. Giving her food at bedtime will send her to sleep with a full tummy and may help her sleep longer. Keeping her out of the bedroom at night may help, but don’t be surprised to hear her scratching and knocking on the door early in the morning. Be prepared to put up with that for a couple of weeks until Fluffy understands that it doesn’t do her any good. As a last resort, put Fluffy in her own “bedroom” for the night. With a litterbox, water, bedding, and toys, she’ll be fine until you get up. For more information, go to http://www.petplace.com/cats/thwarting-the-alarm-clock-cat/page1.aspx 9. When should I take my cat to the vet? Every cat/kitten should be taken to the vet within a week or two of joining your family. Even though they may seem perfectly healthy, a “well cat” checkup is in order to make sure there are no lurking problems such as parasites. Additionally, if Fluffy is a kitten, she may be due for inoculations. After the initial vet visit, your cat should go to the vet once a year. The vet will do a physical exam to make sure the cat is healthy and administer Rabies and any other legally required or recommended inoculations. Senior cats (7 yrs. and older) should be examined by a vet twice a year. Of course you should take Fluffy to the vet any time you suspect she may a health problem. Not using the litterbox, excessive thirst or urination, frequent coughing or sneezing, vomiting or diarrhea that last more than one day, significant changes in activity level or appetite - all are signs of potential problems. No one knows Fluffy better than you do. You’ll be the first one to sense anything that might signal a health problem. When in doubt, take her to the vet. Imagine how you would feel if you failed to take the time or spend a few dollars to take her to the vet and she had a serious illness which could have been treated. For more information, go to http://catcare.karynb.com/vet_care.html 10. What should I feed my cat? Cats are obligate carnivores. That means that they must eat meat to survive. Their metabolism is such that they cannot effectively digest grains and vegetables. In the wild, the only vegetables a cat eats is the stomach contents of its prey. Commercially available cat foods come in three varieties: dry, semi-moist, and canned. Any of them that are marked “complete and balanced nutrition” per AAFCO standards will be adequate for your cat. However, if you check the feeding guidelines on the package, you’ll see that you must feed more of the less expensive foods to meet Fluffy’s nutritional needs. Check the labels on the cat food packages. You’ll find that the less expensive brands list corn meal and other grains as the first ingredient. In the long run, a high quality canned food will be the best for your cat and, perhaps, your pocketbook. Some cat guardians are proponents of a raw food diet, claiming it is closest to what a cat would eat in the wild. It is difficult, however, to insure that a home made raw diet will contain a sufficient amount of essential nutrients. Further, many veterinarians advise against a raw food diet because of the risk of disease such as salmonella. For more information, go to http://www.vet.cornell.edu/fhc/resources/brochure/feedcats.html General Information References:Here are three web sites that provide excellent information on all facets of cat care: http://catsinternational.org/ http://www.vet.cornell.edu/fhc/resources/brochure/ http://www.spcanova.org/feline_education.html http://cats.about.com/od/newtocats/tp/topmistakes.htm http://www.petpublishing.com/catkit/faq.shtml Donations to help our animals may be made through a secure page on P.O. Box 541. Montgomery, IL. 60538 Phone 630-897-8738 Fax 630-897-4046 e-mail: pawsandpurrs@prodigy.net
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